Launched four years ago, the AZ Factory brand is coming to an end as a commercial entity. But the adventure continues in another form. The democratic fashion house created by Alber Elbaz, born of a partnership with the Swiss luxury group Richemont shortly before the death of the emblematic Israeli-American couturier on April 24, 2021, has announced a new chapter. It will be transformed into the AZ Academy, a training programme to help and support fashion designers who have already graduated to develop their own houses.

As the Swiss group points out in a press release, “this year, as part of a new chapter in the company’s development, AZ Factory will move from its current commercial activity to the launch of AZ Academy: Business for designers through the Richemont Creative Academy and in partnership with the Accademia Costume & Moda (ACM),” Italy’s historic fashion school.

With the death of Alber Elbaz, just after launching his first collection, Richemont decided to pursue this fashion project, rethinking it around a collective creation mechanism. Richemont approached a series of young designers, inviting them to create capsule collections. These included designers who had already launched their own brands, such as Thebe Magugu and Ester Manas, more established independent designers such as Lutz Huelle, Colville with Lucinda Chambers and Molly Molloy, and newcomers such as Jenny Hytönen.

The idea now is to build on the “smart fashion that cares” concept developed by AZ Factory and go even further. With AZ Academy, Richemont says it wants to fill a gap, “by offering a unique programme designed to equip designers with the skills and knowledge they need to turn their creative ideas into successful businesses that are likely to attract investors.” It is aimed in particular at “emerging creative talent and new designers who aspire to launch their own brands after graduating from international fashion schools.”

From May 2024, they are invited to apply to the AZ Academy, whether they are “emerging designers with proven talent (fashion, leather goods, accessories), recently graduated designers or professional designers already in the industry who are at a turning point in their career.” Between 10 and 20 of them will be selected next September by a jury of fashion industry professionals, and will be awarded a scholarship, endorsed by Richemont, enabling them to follow a kind of super-specialised master’s degree, over a period of twelve months in Milan from January 2025, the luxury group says.

Creating a bridge between designers and investors

The programme includes subjects such as creativity, innovation, sustainability, production, finance, law, marketing and inclusiveness, as well as an immersive experience with suppliers and mentoring. The aim is to prepare participants to present themselves to potential investors with a collection and a business plan.

“With the AZ Academy, we will create a bridge between designers and investors, transforming creative visions into viable business plans to attract investors. What better way to pay tribute to Alber Elbaz?” sums up Mauro Grimaldi, who piloted AZ Factory as strategic advisor to Philippe Fortunato, CEO of Richemont’s Fashion and Accessories division.

AZ Factory had already been preparing its transition for some time. Last January, the label gave up its fashion shows, offering Lutz Huelle its slot during Haute Couture Week, as well as a budget to organise his show. The German designer has been working with the house for a year and a half, designing the pre-collections, of which the one for autumn 2024 was AZ Factory’s final collection.

As the company explains, “as far as AZ Factory’s current activity is concerned, no new collections will be introduced, but the e-commerce site will remain operational until the end of July, so that customers can purchase the remaining products and obtain the assistance they need.” This transformation into AZ Academy will clearly lead the reorganisation of the company. “For the employees affected by these changes, all the measures have been communicated and prepared in coordination with their representatives. We are working with each employee individually to find the best solution within the group,” he assures us.